Lundy boasts immaculate granite cliffs up to 120m in height providing a wealth of sea cliff adventures amongst stunning scenery and wildlife and over 1000 routes are documented. To avoid disturbance to nesting seabirds, access restrictions that cover around 70% of the cliffs are typically put in place between 31 March and 14 August, although these may be extended or varied depending on the breeding season. A small number of crags and buttresses are closed until 15 September to avoid disturbance to breeding Fulmar. The 2021 information, published by The Landmark Trust, can be found here. Climbers are advised to check the noticeboard in the Marisco Tavern and contact the Warden in advanmce or on arrival.
The majority of Lundy's cliffs are on the western side of the island, with the most popular cliffs between Old Light and Three-quarter Wall. When high winds or big seas make climbing on the west coast impossible, there are good climbs on Halfway Buttress on the east, around the obvious Logan Stone.
The definitive guide, by Paul Harrison, published in 2008 is available from The Climbers Club website, where there are also free downloads of a 2017 update and a 2009 supplement covering the Knight Templar Rocks.
According to UKClimbing, the most popular climbs are:
- The Devil's Slide (HS 4a) - the classic Lundy slab climb, not usually affected by the seabird restrictions; 117m, 5 pitches, although pitches 1+2 and 4+5 may be combined.
- Albion (VS 4c) - a popular climb in the Devil's Slide area - the big corner on the left-hand side of the Devil's Slide; 107m, 4 pitches.
- Satan's Slip (E1 5a) - also in the Devil's Slide area follows the black streak up the left hand side of the Devil's Slide until it reaches the corner of Albion higher up; 3 pitches.
- Diamond Solitaire (VS 4c) - in the Flying Buttress area, near Battery Point, 2 pitches.
- Horseman's Route (HS 4b) - in the same area as Diamond Solitaire; 2 pitches.
- The Indy 500 (E1 5b) - in the Landing Craft Bay area, south of Battery Point; 35m, 1 pitch.
- Shamrock (VS 4c) - also in the Landing Craft Bay area; 3 pitches.
- Double Diamond (HVS 5b) - in the Flying Buttress area; 35m, 1 pitch.
- Formula One (HVS 5a) - adjacent to Indy 500 in the Landing Craft Bay area, formerly one of Lundy's classic HVSs and a route of great variety; 40m, 1 pitch. The top flake had fallen away by June 2012, with loose rock forcing an escape onto the Indy 500 route (the so-called 'Formula 500' variant).